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post Thursday Morning (cuz it didnt post yesterday)

September 25th, 2009

Filed under: Surf Reports — mark @ 8:33 am

Rained pretty good early this morning, now just the Oregon drizzle…… will start to clear up a little later, but the swell really dropped from yesterday! Going to finish up some work around here, then go for a look…. W 3-5ft @ 10 sec’s with very light N winds this morning…… later today, N winds 25+mph. low tide at 10:33am, high at 4:20p….. Friday looks pretty good as well, W7ft @ 10 sec’s with light am winds, picking up to N 20+ later, high tide at 6:30am. Sat. NW 9ft with N 25+mph, high tide at 7:40am, Sun. NW 10ft with N 20+mph, high at 8:45am, Monday NW 10 with N winds 15mph, high tide at 9:40am.

today is the visitors blog/rant day…… so , I will just plug in the 3 that I got this week…… as usual, the flounder gets top billing……( I have pictures of him surfing yesterday…. am holding them hostage)

FLOUNDERS BLOG I DONT RANT
I have to say, after reading Nic’s letter to surfer magazine, I pale in comparison. I don’t know what you do for a living Nic, but you should have been a writer. Damn good stuff, and it got me thinking about the whole “Territorial” thing. Thought I would throw in my two-cents, and realize this is coming from a “Novice for Life”. You never have to worry about me riding your Lady out at the Point. so to speak.
First, I have to say, I don’t really buy into the whole “territorial” thing. Sorry guys and gals, but you don’t own your little stretch of the ocean. What I do live by is mutual respect. If you are new to surfing, follow the rules. Don’t drop in on someone else’s ride, (unless it is Marks wave), don’t take a wave out of turn. Don’t go past your current limits or skill level. Earn your place, both with practice, and showing respect. It goes miles in both surfing and life in general. If you are a veteran surfer, keep a couple things in mind. You did not start out this adventure by paddling out, sitting on your board, spotting a perfect set, picking your wave, and popping up for a perfect ride. Remember where you came from. Someone probably helped you out along the way, maybe you can return the favor. It might erase some of your Karma Debt. So the next time your pissed off at someone you don’t recognize or know out in the water, because of something goofy they did, try spending a moment or two educating them and helping them out, instead of being an asshole. Now, if they tell you to pound sand, or don’t want to listen to you, then they are free game. Assholes are born that way, and they usually dont change. Have at em! I have been surfing at Indian pretty regularly for about three years now. It cracks me up when I see someone in the parking lot who I dont know, and I give them a nod and a quiet “Hi”, and I get the piss eye back. If this is where your heads at, I feel sorry for you. Re-evaluate man. You are not half as cool or tough as you think you are. None of us are. Oh, and pick up your dog shit. Be Good Humans, Flounder

Sean had a short quickie……. Utopia my former future in-laws call it! The Oregon Coast goes by many names, Shangri-La, Eden…

Ryan sent one…. looks like he has a book coming out…….
Hey Mark, You can post this on Thursday if you want. http://thechinproject.wordpress.com/2009/08/19/mansbestfriend Just got a few essays published and will be releasing my book next year. Ryan

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1 Comment »

  1. There seem to be some aspects of that letter that make me think it’s not about Oregon. Isn’t there a seaside in San Diego? Maybe I’m just hoping…

    Comment by Richard — September 25, 2009 @ 12:06 pm

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