Friday Morning
May 29th, 2009
Got some waves this morning....... pictures are much better than the conditions.... waist high junky, with some south cross currents in the W 3 ft swell..... all in all, took a bit, but finally picked off a few fun ones.... and it just felt damn good to get out and paddle.... Flounder was out early, and said it was epic in the white water..... said he was hanging 10 on every wave.....overhead, until he stood up....... Surfed with The Gordon, Jules and Mike this morning.....good group...... another "epic" session at the secret spot at Ecola....... south will be better today..... north.... not so good....... Sat. looks to be about the same, a little bump on sunday to 4ft , then Mon and Tues W/NW 4ft with light NW winds in the am, with the usual stronger winds in the afternoon...... Sun was out, so no matter what the surf was doing, it was damn nice out there......



