Our latest ad from Brook……. Have a great Labor Day weekend!! mark mekenas mark@cannonbeachsurf.com www.cannonbeachsurf.com

Ryan aka “SF ryan” (drives a white stepvan, Chinos Bastardos, asian guy, not that other guy ) sent me this……. finally got a chance to read it through….. great story!!!! Hope you enjoy it as much as I did! Thanks Ryan

> From: Ryan Chin > Subject: First Waves in Peru > > > Hey Mark thought you might enjoy this story I wrote about my first > waves in Peru. It’s tough when you don’t have your own board, suit > and some wheels. After catching some waves Saturday and being home > for a day, Lori’s grandma passed so I’m back on the East Coast again! > > > Kissing Lori goodbye, I pocket a ziploc bag with a hundred sole, a > copy of my passport, and a card with the hostel address. Lori would > be going to the town square to draw people, visit a few churches and > go back to the shaman street market. The shaman street market or > “witch” market might have something for fertility or an aphrodisiac > or two. We don´t necessarily need such things but it can´t hurt as > we try for a Chori(Chin/Lori). > > We´d checked out the street market earlier. In addition to the fly > covered fillet of iguana, live guinea pigs, rows of produce, and > hecklers and pushers, an old man in a suitjacket tried selling magic > healing pills to us. The center piece of his leaning wood table was > a 3 ft tapeworm curled neatly in a bottle. He held an orange in one > hand and a small vile in another. The vile had tiny white specks > floating around and I could only surmise he was scaring us into > buying his cure. > > Over and over he shouted, “(Spanish)See this orange man! There are > hundreds of eggs on it!” > > “Great,” I thought, “Can you get it by having orange peel up your > nose?” > > Leaving the room, I lick my lips and breath deep savoring the > anticipation of my solo mission. Our room on the hostal´s third > floor is nothing special. For $15 U.S we have our own mildewy > shower, cable television, a double bed, paper thin windows and walls > and jackhammering at 7:30 in the morning – perfect. Skipping a few > steps at a time, I rattle the grout between the cracked tile. > Reaching the lobby, I nod my head at Victor. A squat and proper > man, Victor is sporting his usual tie, dressshirt and slacks and > looks funny with a chaulk gun. He explains in his decent English > that he´s “sound” proofing. I don´t have the heart to tell him a > little bead of silicon isn´t going to do anything against the > barrage of horns, sirens and jackhammers. > > “Careful with that stuff. You have nice clothes on,” I warn before > heading out the door. > > I´m going on a wavehunt. We´re staying in Chiclayo, just 15km from > the Pacific. Pimental, a small town to the west might have waves and > maybe just maybe I can find a board and wetsuit to rent. With it > being winter, alot of the the coastal towns are dormant with boarded > windows, empty restaurants, and newspaper wrapped railings(rust > control). The chances of catching a wave are slim but having been a > teacher, I know to always-TRY. > > Stepping into the busy street, I make eye contact with several taxi > drivers but wave the first few by, looking or “feeling” for the > honest guy. I settle on a newer looking compact and am not sure if > the guy is honest but he is, however, much smaller than me should he > drive down a dark alley – I hop in. > > “Pimental, Pimental,” I repeat. > “Ahhh Peee-men-tall!” he replies. > “Si! La Playa!(beach)” > “Cua…Cuanto Costo?(How much)” I ask. > > The man´s wrinkles deepen slighly, his lips tighten, and his head > shakes. I´ve butchered the man´s language and I slump into my seat > dejected – the kid who gets picked last for a kickball game. > > I console myself, “Well it can´t be too much.” > > Although it´s not like Southern China, it´s still “reasonable” if > you get ripped off in Peru. In China I´d been completely HAD > renting a bike for weeks and it still only cost me $10. > > After only a few minutes we stop and I shrug, “Wazzup man?” > > He points at a row of mini-buses. The words Chiclayo-Pimental are > written in white letters across the nearest one. The money collector > or “ride hustler” is a young boy, tall by local standards and > lanky. He hangs out the side door waving and yelling, “Pee-men-tal! > Pee-men-tal!” The fumes from dozens of idling engines causes me to > cough. I hand my driver three sole(about $1.15) and transfer quickly > to the boy´s green van. It´s packed with students and other locals. > The smell of cilantro is welcome and I sit next to an old lady with > a bag of vegetables. Her old wool sweater rubs my arm and I´m sure > its her leathery hands that knitted it years ago. A fat sweaty man > is crammed into a corner holding a giant toy motorcycle. I grin at > him and imagine the future smile of his child. If I could speak > Spanish, I´d tell him, “That thing is made in China you know?” > > Making eye contact with the boy, I realize he´s even younger than I > thought. I open my hands full of change, my fare at his mercy. He > flicks a few coins around, settles on a 2 sole piece and hands me > back a .50 coin. I respond with a thumbs up and give him back a 1 > sole piece. Always one to try and point out the good things I make > note to learn “honest man” in spanish. > > The relatively smooth roads of the city give way to packed dirt. > The driver slithers through colorful trishaws and potholes > resembling bomb craters. Swaying in unison with the rest of the > passengers, I watch the red and white Peruvian flags waving in front > of a large, well maintained school. The building looks out of place > with the war like street in front of it and I reminsce about my days > of teaching. The flags wave in the opposited direction of our travel > and I frown. The winds are onshore or out of the west, bad for > surfing. The chances of rideable waves are slim but I straigten up > and nod – sometimes there´s a few gems if you are desperate enough. > > It´s a typical ride where the driver thinks faster velocities equals > being able to fit through tighter spots. I understand his madness; > time is money. Peruvians are paying $5 U.S dollars a gallon but > average salaries of teachers and professors are about $500 a month – > we Americans really don´t have anything to complain about. > > Soon I exit the van to a view of the Pacific, something I never take > for granted. She´s been good to me for over ten years now. A long > detiorating pier stretches about 1/2 a mile out to sea, restaurants > line the promenade but only half are open. The gray skies and cold > winds bite my face and rock the closed umbrellas of the empty > restaurants. The waves are big and nasty and not a surfer in sight. > Feels a little like the Oregon coast except for the fisherman > building their Caballitos(traditional straw boats). > > I zip up my fleece and decide to take a stroll on an interior > street. A few locals sneak an extra peak over their shoulder as I > walk by. Even through there´s a Chinatown in Lima and Chinese > restaurants in every city we´ve been to thus far, I unwillingly > solicit extra looks. > > “Chinos Bastardo! I must be a Chinos Bastardo!” I chuckle. > > During a surf trip to Mexico, my mate Erik had created the > nickname. We were packed into the back of of pickup truck with some > local surfers. I asked one who spoke broken English, ” How do you > say Chinese in Spanish?” Without missing a beat Erik asked,”How do > you say bastard?” Seconds later, five Mexicans and one of my best > mates were chanting, “Chinos Bastardo!” > > Ignoring the stares I muster the courage to try a new Spanish verb I > looked up just before I left. I stop an old gent on a rusted bike. > > “Pardon, Donde aquilar la tabla(Where rent a surfboard)” > > Nothing! I suck! > > He meanders away down the deserted street. Not only am I a Chinos > Bastardo but I´m a lazy one! Living in California for ten years, > there´s no reason why I shouldn´t know more Spanish. Having > aspirations to live in Central America one day with Lori and our > future family, I vow to make it a priority. > > A new curb looks inviting and my dejected ass finds it. It´s the > kind of sidewalk and curb built in a flurry to “improve” the town > but will most likely distintegrate by the time the whole length of > the street is completed. I close my eyes and envision a meeting. I > see myself giving a “poor me” story to some traveling surfers. They > lend me a board and suit for a quick paddle. I sit projecting the > scenario into the universe for awhile then turn my energy to > figuring out how to convey my plight to a local surfer. > > It´d be easy. I´d point to his board and suit and then back to me > and say, “Yo dos horas sole por favour(I two hours money please > please!)” > > A mangy shepherd mix appears and endures my spanish practice for > just a few seconds. Now I`ve frightened an old man and a dog with my > spanish. Over the dog´s bony body however, I spot a couple kids with > surfboards! Charging like a pack of kids chasing the icecream man I > round a corner and find them waxing their boards. Wasting no time, I > put my hand on the closest board and ask, “Donde alquilar?! They > laugh and flick their heads behind them. A laminated paper sign on > blue metal door greets my eye – bingo! > > The only word I can read is surfboard and I push the unlocked door > open. Walking down the narrow brick hall, I encounter an old stocky > man. His face is wrinkled and hair gray but the youth of a surfer > shines at the edges of his smile. > > “Alquilar la tabla?” > His eyes gleam and he replies, “Si!” > > He leads me to a back room, white foam dust swirling at our feet. > The man is not only a surfer but he shapes boards as well. Small > saws, planes, dirty painter´s masks and various sanding tools hang > on the walls and line a narrow shelf. Hardened resins in the rough > shape of surfboard rise above the concrete floor. > > Modern surfboards are made by shaping a rough piece of foam; the > curves and angles determine how it will ride on the wave. After > shaping, the whole board is covered in fibreglass and resin spread > over the entire thing. > > I wish I can tell him how much I appreciate being in the room of a > craftsman. Who knows how many boards have left this room, caresed > into deliberate and purposeful shapes by his hands. He picks up a > few shortboards and I raise my hand hand indicating I´d like a > longer board. The old man steps gingerly towards a corner of the > room. He looks over his shoulder and I notice a beautiful balsa wood > board. Balsa boards are rare and expensive nowadays. Twirling the > board he reminds me of a a little boy showing off his prized > baseball cards. I can´t believe my luck and the man´s trust in me, > the Chinos Bastardo. > > Minutes later I slip the plastic bag with my valuables into the > shoulder area of my wetsuit and zip up. Exiting the rear of the > house, I step onto the promenade and meet another surfer. Berto is > his name and he´s forty. Long black hair drapes down either side of > his face and we shrug at the condition of the surf. I´m able to > tell him I´m from Oregon where the surf is friole(cold). Berto > steps into the water and is immediatedly pounded by the powerful > shore break. Through the whipping wind I can hear him yell, “Ryan! > Oregon! Ryan! Oregon!” My new spot jitters relieved by Berto´s > stoke, I charge into the waves paddling the Balsa board. The heavy > currents quickly seperate us. Alone in big sloppy surf, now it > really feels like home. > > A gem appears like I knew it would and turn to catch it. The balsa > board paddles smoothly into the wave. My smile and the old man´s > smile unite and I shoot across the steep face. The wave closes out > and it grows dark momentarily. I can feel sand on my back before > popping back to the surface. > > “This isn´t home,” I think, “I´m in Peru!” > > Off in the distance, I can hear Berto. > “Ryan! Oregon! Ryan! Oregon!” > >

Minus low tide this morning, but there were some waves….. will be much better with some water in, probably in about 3 hours or so…. NW 5-6ft @ 8- 10sec’s, almost glassy in the am, N winds picking up in the afternoon…. sun is trying to burn through, a little colder than usual this morning, about 50 on the drive up to Indian. Sunday looks about the same, then Monday NW 6 with NW winds, Tues. W4ft with N winds, Wed. W5ft with N winds….. looks like Indian will be fun next week…… Getting ready for the deck party on Monday, Noho stopped by yesterday, and made sure we had some of his great food to serve …… hell yes….. we had some last night for dinner…. can never get too much! Kids are already “decorating” the walls that will come down…. Looks to be a busy weekend, hope you all have a great one!

Fog is thick….. air is warm….. water is nice……. can’t see shit…… Arnold stopped by, said that up at Indian, you could walk to the outside rock…. inside closeouts….. he was heading over to the cove…. I think it will get much better with some water in…. high tide is around 12:30p….. so, before or after should be pretty good…. N winds picking up this afternoon to about 25mph. Sat. and Sun looking about the same, with Monday and Tuesday dropping a bit to NW 5-6ft with N winds.

Big and ugly today….. W9-10ft @ 8-10 sec’s>>>> right…… Light N winds….. Friday drops to W6-7ft with Lt. N winds… Sat W8ft, dropping to W6ft in the late afternoon, N winds…. Monday NW6ft with N winds…….. So…. more work at the shop…. Chris from Beaverton came in, he actually did get wet this morning…. his quote of the day ” surf sucks, and I suck, so it was OK….”….. Ran into the Sheriff from up north…. finger…… at the cove this morning….. sometimes a christmas gift is just dropped in your lap, and you have to open it up! For those that have emailed “excuses” in support of the sheriff….. Nice Try! This will not die…. No, he did not mean a work almost like posse, only with a u……… it won’t work….. all in all, it was good to get caught up….. too bad the surf sucked, I would have enjoyed dropping in on him……

First things first…… yes…. the very last deck party is on for Monday evening…. around 6p…. and yes “posse’s” are welcome….. On tuesday the demolition will begin on the south side of the building…. potluck etc…. you know….
Just had a conversation with Kim at the CB Chamber… we discussed this years “Stormy Weather Arts” weekend, Nov. 7,8 & 9th….. She was planning on a 3 day showing of an hawaiian photographers work at the chamber …. I guess he is pretty good…. anyway, we talked about the need to promote Cannon Beach, or Northwest photographers at our chamber…. Kim totally agreed, and will be working on getting out some sort of release on this…….. The idea is to get some of our local photographers to show some of their surf photography, especially local shots and local surfers, and the local surf shops could show some of their high end unique surf equipment…. The Chamber would give the Surf Photo display all day on Sunday… (although I think we should highlight all weekend…. but a start is a start!) I know for a fact, we have some great local photog’s floating around here!!! If you are interested, you can contact Kim at our Cannon Beach Chamber email at chamber@cannonbeach.org
mark mekenas cbsurf@cannonbeachsurf.com www.cannonbeachsurf.com

Went up to Indian really early…. that’s why the picture is a bit dark…. S winds howling 20+mph…. Surf was junk, so then drove over to the Cove….. really couldn’t tell the diff…… both looked like crap….. W 5-7ft @ 6-9 sec’s today… SW winds in the am, but supposed to turn from the NW later, and the swell is supposed to pick up to 9ft. Thurs NW 10ft, Friday supposed to drop to NW8ft with N winds, Sat. NW9ft with N winds, then Sunday NW7ft with N winds…. looks like the N end of Shortys this week might be good….. Maybe??? Going back in the AM to take another look……
So….. I am at the cove, and Elec. Ben pulls in with a message from Mr Finger….. Ben said that ( and I asked several times if the wording was correct) Finger needed to know what time the deck party was on Monday, as he was going to bring his “posse” over………… yes…… he said “posse”…… so… with this challenge, I guess I will ask DL Jim to assemble the CB “posse”, and Sandy to assemble the Cove “posse” and Samoan the Portland “posse” so we can have a full “posse” deck party…… Mo… Can you put together the San Diego “posse”? And Tom, how about the Irish “posse”..? Tim… how about the Seattle “posse”……??? Hell yes!! Deck party 6:30p on Monday….. on Tuesday, they start the demo…… we will allow “decorating” on the old building (at least the part to be destroyed)…. so we can post pictures….

Surf will be great this morning, because at the market, it is hell day….. double duty today…. both regular and organic grocery deliveries…. but, still might get some late morning water time…… Wed. early morning looking good as well. Today,W5ft @ 9sec’s, no wind this morning…. supposed to get some N/NW winds later…. Wed morning, W5ft, building to 9ft later in the day with Lt. SW winds in the am, N/NW later in the day. Possibly might invade Sandy’s area in the morning…. Thursday NW8ft with NW winds….. better on this side of the head. Friday NW8ft with N winds… again, this side…. Sat. NW9ft with N winds…. south of the head might be the better call…… Get some!!

Met Arnold up at Indian this morning, we decided… what the hell, didn’t look that good, but we needed to get wet! Turned out to be a bit of a paddle to get out, even though the rip was working, and the intervals were pretty tight…. water was nice…. still on the warm side! Glad we went….. got a bunch of shoulder to head high juicy nuggets… some bouncy drops, but damn fun….. then the foot paddled out…. I think he needed the the big orange board….. but he was getting a bunch when I left…. met Samoan Eric on the road in…. Good start to a week that we thought would be crap…. sun is even out…… go figure! Tuesday should be about the same, picking up on Wed and Thurs to 9-10 ft, then dropping on Friday to 7ft…. Felt like it still had some South in the swell today…. We have now decided that the very last deck party will be on Monday… Labor Day…. we want to get a bunch of signatures on the building before we knock it down…… and, WE WILL BE OPEN DURING CONSTRUCTION!

Big change from Saturday…. swell picked up W 5-7ft today, with SW winds 20+ this morning…. only place I would go would be to the cove….. I think most places will be blown out….. Monday and Tuesday looking like W5-6ft, with N/NW winds….. so much for the warm temp in the water and air today….. Wed. and Thursday pick up to NW 9-10ft with N winds….. back to this side of the head. Supposed to rain again this afternoon, so the chances of the deck party are nil……. looks like we will have to do one on Labor Day… Monday……. hours before the deck is destroyed forever…..